China’s Cities of Gastronomy (1): Shunde, Chaozhou, and Macau
(中国的 “美食之都”: 顺德, 潮州, 澳门)
5 min read
Among UNESCO’s global list of Cities of Gastronomy, six are located in China. Of these, Shunde, Chaozhou, and Macau (顺德, 潮州, 澳门) are in Guangdong Province (广东省), while Yangzhou and Huai’an (淮安) are in Jiangsu Province (江苏省), and Chengdu (成都) is in Sichuan Province (四川省). This first installment focuses on the cuisines of Shunde, Chaozhou, and Macau; the second will explore Yangzhou, Huai’an, and Chengdu.
Shunde
Among regional branches of Cantonese cuisine, Shunde cooking is often regarded as the most sophisticated, where simplicity reveals mastery. Shunde is known as the “cradle of Cantonese cuisine,” and its culinary tradition is celebrated for precision, freshness, and craftsmanship.
Its cuisine centers on four core ingredient categories—fish, rice, milk, and poultry—and emphasizes preserving the original flavors of ingredients to achieve a taste that is light yet not bland, and fresh and tender without being crude. Shunde chefs rely on six signature techniques—steaming, stir-frying, slicing (for raw preparations), blanching, braising, and stuffing—to highlight the inherent qualities of ingredients.
Shunde cuisine prioritizes simplicity and balance, avoiding heavy seasoning. Using only a few ingredients—such as light soy sauce, ginger, scallion, and minimal oil—it depends on refined techniques to bring out natural flavors, even in wok-fried dishes. It also follows seasonal rhythms and emphasizes dietary balance, with the guiding principle of “cleansing in spring, cooling in summer, nourishing in autumn, and warming in winter.”
Located in the Pearl River Delta, Shunde is rich in freshwater fish, and its chefs are masters of fish preparation. Nearly every part of the fish—meat, head, skin, and intestines—is utilized, and different techniques transform fish into a variety of textures, including fish slices, fish paste, fish balls, and fish-skin dishes (top two images below).
For example, fresh mud carp is deboned and minced into a fine paste. Diced water chestnuts and finely ground dried tangerine peel are added, and the mixture is vigorously hand-beaten to develop a firm, springy texture. It is then shaped into small patties and pan-fried until golden brown. A lightly sweet-and-sour sauce enhances the natural freshness of the fish.
Water buffalo milk is another key ingredient. Fried Milk (third image below) is made primarily from milk and egg whites using a gentle frying method, sometimes enriched with shrimp, fried olives, or minced ham.
Crispy Fried Milk, a traditional dessert, begins with a custard-like mixture of milk, cornstarch, and sugar. After cooling and setting, it is cut into pieces, coated in batter, and deep-fried until golden (fourth image below).
Chaozhou
Distinct from mainstream Cantonese cuisine, Chaozhou (Teochew) cuisine emphasizes the natural flavors of fresh seafood and favors marination and light cooking over heavy stir-frying.
A hallmark of Chaozhou cuisine is “sheng yan” (生腌)—a traditional method developed by fishermen to preserve seafood while maintaining its fresh, raw texture. Similar to ceviche, seafood such as shrimp, crab, and clams is marinated with garlic, chili, vinegar, soy sauce, and clear liquor, then chilled before serving (first image below).
Braised goose (second image below) holds a central place in Chaoshan culinary culture. Slowly cooked in a master sauce of wine, soy sauce, sugar, spices (such as galangal and star anise), and aromatics, it is often served as the opening dish at banquets.
Another signature dish is Chaozhou beef hot pot (third image below). The key ingredient is ultra-fresh beef, typically used within hours of slaughter. The broth is made from simmering beef bones and galangal. Beef is divided into more than a dozen cuts—including tongue and tripe—each requiring precise cooking times, often just seconds in boiling broth.
A formal Chaozhou banquet typically includes twelve courses, often ending with a taro dessert symbolizing a sweet conclusion. Taro is steamed, mashed into a paste, and sautéed with ginkgo nuts and sugar, producing a dessert with a velvety texture and subtle sweetness.
Meals are often accompanied by Gongfu tea (功夫茶), served in small teapots and cups with concentrated infusions and multiple short brews. The tea cleanses the palate and complements the cuisine’s delicate flavors (fourth image below).
Macau
Macau cuisine is one of the world’s earliest examples of fusion cuisine, blending Eastern and Western culinary traditions. It emerged nearly 500 years ago when Portuguese settlers arrived in Macau.
Portuguese traders brought spices from Africa, India, Southeast Asia, and Brazil—such as turmeric, cumin, coconut milk, cloves, and cinnamon—many of which were uncommon in traditional Cantonese cooking. Over time, intermarriage between Portuguese settlers and local Chinese populations led to the integration of diverse ingredients and techniques into a distinctive local cuisine.
Although geographically surrounded by Guangdong, Macau’s cuisine differs significantly from standard Cantonese food. It combines elements such as Western-style baked dishes seasoned with soy sauce and Chinese stir-fries enhanced with olive oil and wine.
A representative dish is Macau-style bacalhau (salt cod), prepared with potatoes, olives, bell peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and chili. This dish blends Portuguese culinary traditions with Cantonese stir-frying techniques.
Another iconic food is the Macau Portuguese egg tart (left image below). Derived from pastéis de nata, it features a flaky crust, creamy custard, and caramelized top. It has become a culinary symbol of Macau and inspired the Hong Kong-style egg tart (right image below), which is now popular across China and throughout the Chinese diaspora.
Access
The best way to experience the cuisines of Shunde, Chaozhou, and Macau is to visit their places of origin. From Hong Kong, a major international transportation hub:
- Shunde and Macau are accessible by ferry
- Chaozhou can be reached by high-speed rail
All destinations are within two to three hours of travel.
Photo credit: Baidu.com; Macao Government Tourism Office
