What Marco Polo Saw in China

(马可波罗眼中的中国)

5 min read

 

Marco Polo was born into a family of adventurers. In 1271, at the age of sixteen, he accompanied his father and uncle as they departed Venice for the Mongol court during the Yuan Dynasty (元朝). Risking inhospitable deserts infested with bandits, they traveled through Turkey and Iran and reached the Iranian coast along the Persian Gulf. From there, they chose an overland route, heading northeast into Afghanistan and then across the Pamirs (帕米尔), just west of present-day Xinjiang, China. By this point, the Polos were on the main Silk Road route, which led them through today’s Chinese cities of Kashgar (喀什), Dunhuang (敦煌), Jiuquan (酒泉), and Zhangye (张掖). In 1275, they arrived at Dadu (大都), modern-day Beijing, which Marco Polo called Khanbaliq, meaning “the City of the Khan.” Marco Polo was only twenty years old at the time.

 

For the next sixteen years, the Polos lived under the patronage of the Yuan emperor Kublai Khan (忽必烈), and Marco came to regard the Mongol Empire as his adopted homeland. Around 1292, a Mongol princess was to be sent to Persia to marry Arghun Khan, and the homesick Polos offered to accompany her on the journey by sea. They returned to Venice in 1295, where Marco soon became entangled in the war between Venice and the Republic of Genoa. Captured by Genoese forces, he spent several months in a Genoan prison, where he dictated an account of his travels in China to a fellow inmate, Rustichello da Pisa. The resulting book, The Travels of Marco Polo, became one of the most influential travel narratives in history and is often regarded as the world’s first bestseller (opening image).

Although Marco Polo never became fluent in Chinese, he was a keen and curious observer. During his years in China, he was deeply impressed by the customs and technologies of his adopted country and later described them enthusiastically in The Travels. For example, although paper existed in Europe when Marco Polo left Venice, it was not yet widely used. Its broader introduction to Europe was facilitated in part by accounts such as Marco Polo’s descriptions of paper currency in China, where paper had been in use since the first century BCE. He was fascinated by the widespread use of paper money (image below), backed by imperial authority, and wrote that “the Khan has such a quantity of money that he could buy all the treasures in the world.” He also described coal as “a kind of black stone existing in beds in the mountains, which they dig out and burn like firewood,” noting that it retained heat so well that it could still be burning the following morning. Marco Polo encountered a wide variety of spices in China, including ginger, cinnamon, and pepper—commodities that would later inspire European explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan to seek them across vast distances. He reported that as much as 10,000 pounds of pepper were brought daily into the city of Kinsai (modern Hangzhou, 杭州).

Marco Polo was also amazed by China’s highly efficient postal service, which functioned as a delivery system for government documents, military orders, and official reports—nothing comparable existed in Europe at the time. The system relied on relay stations (驿站) spaced at regular intervals, allowing riders to travel no more than about forty kilometers before handing messages to fresh riders with new horses. These stations provided food and shelter for travelers and maintained hundreds of horses ready for dispatch. As a result, urgent messages could be transmitted over distances of two to three hundred kilometers per day. This postal network had already been well organized as early as the Qin Dynasty (秦朝) in the 3rd century BCE.

 

Marco Polo witnessed the construction of China’s new capital, Dadu, and noted its perfect square layout, with each side measuring nearly eight kilometers, enclosed by walls with twelve gates, and containing the palace of the Great Khan at its center. The Travels describes the palace’s glazed roof—colored red, green, blue, and yellow—as shining like crystal. He portrayed the Grand Canal (大运河) as a vital trade artery transporting enormous quantities of goods such as silk, porcelain, and grain, and he was particularly impressed by its role in linking major cities and facilitating commerce among them. Marco Polo himself traveled to Kinsai, at the southern terminus of the Grand Canal. He described Hangzhou’s stone-paved streets, bathhouses, bustling markets, numerous bridges, and a population fifteen times that of Venice. He marveled at the city’s waterways, writing that “in every part of the city it is possible to travel either by land or by these streams”—a feature that must have reminded him of his native Venice.

 

There is no explicit mention of Marco Polo in surviving Chinese historical records, leading some earlier historians to question whether he ever reached China. Several factors, however, may explain this absence. The official History of the Yuan Dynasty (元史) was compiled during the subsequent Ming Dynasty (明朝) using incomplete records, as many Yuan documents had been lost or destroyed during periods of warfare. Moreover, traditional Chinese historiography prioritized Confucian scholars, court officials, and tributary envoys over merchants. Marco Polo’s role as a trader, and later as a tax collector, may have been considered unremarkable. As historian David Morgan of the University of Wisconsin–Madison observed, “absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.” In addition, scholars such as the sinologist Hans Ulrich Vogel of the University of Tübingen have argued that Marco Polo’s descriptions of China are remarkably accurate, noting that no contemporary Western, Arab, or Persian sources matched his detailed accounts of paper currency, salt production, or the layout of the walled city of Beijing.

 

Marco Polo played an important role in cultural exchange between China and Europe during the late 13th and early 14th centuries. Through his writings, many Europeans encountered detailed descriptions of China and other Asian civilizations for the first time. The Travels heightened European awareness of China and encouraged future explorations, including those undertaken by Christopher Columbus and Ferdinand Magellan. Marco Polo’s observations of China’s advanced economy influenced European merchants, while his accounts contributed to the expansion of trade in luxury goods from East Asia. His descriptions of innovations such as paper, paper currency, printing, salt production, and the use of coal helped broaden European technological horizons. Nevertheless, although Marco Polo might have served in an official capacity under Kublai Khan, his presence likely had little direct impact on Chinese society or politics.